Monday, May 31, 2010

Happy Ending

Once upon a time, I accidentally bought some "holiday" plastic wrap, as they call it. You know -- to celebrate Christmas by making all your foods look grayish-green. Appetizing! Appalled by the way it cast this hideous green sheen on all the foods it covered, I used it as little as possible. I even hid it in the back of the cabinet for months. By "month" I mean at least one year. Maybe two. Maybe more, but let's not talk about that, okay? I bought new clear plastic wrap, used it, ran out, and bought some more. One day, I came across the green nightmare in the cabinet and decided that it was wrong on so many levels to just throw it away. So I started using it. I vowed to not buy any other plastic wrap until the green was gone. Suddenly, I found myself not needing plastic wrap as often. I found all sorts of other solutions, all sorts of substitutes for plastic wrap. Only when I had to use plastic wrap did I use the green kind. I covered pie crusts and pizza doughs, and they all looked so sad and wan underneath the mocking green plastic. Then, one day very, very recently, it was gone. Gone! And then I did a dance of joy and delight as I zipped off the serrated metal cutting strip and tossed the box and tube into the recycling bin. I even buried it in the bin so I wouldn't have to look at it. And then all my pain was gone.

The end.

Sunday, May 30, 2010

My Dealer

I need to tell you something.
I...I...I...
I have a, um, new drug. And a, um, problem. Sort of.

Not that I had an old drug, or anything.
It's just that this new one comes so cheap. So cheap, in fact, that I recently got it free. Free! And in this day and age, a free drug should certainly not be passed up. One should take their free drugs and run!

So here's the thing. I should be honest. Frank. I should tell you that my drug is so pretty looking, so stately, so crisp. Crisp? Okay, okay, so it's not a drug drug, it's a vegetable drug. It's made especially for springtime, and I just love it so much. It like celery woke up one morning and decided to be cheerful, rather than dreary. It's like celery blushed. It's like celery woke up one morning and had sex with a strawberry! Their baby was named Rhubarb. Oh rhubarb. Oh rhubarb! You are a dream come true!
My rhubarb dealer is my friend Beth, and she's got a connection to some very fine product. She brought some to me last week, all tied up with nice black waxy string. The very next day, I turned most of it into muffins. The funny-ish thing about rhubarb is that there isn't a ton of things to do with it. There's the pie, and the crisps, and the tarts. There's the cake, and, of course, muffins. But other than a baked good, what on earth is one supposed to do with this stuff? I did some research and came up dry. There aren't many savory preparations for rhubarb out there, but then again, I wasn't even certain that I wanted it in a savory dish. But I needed to reinvent the rhubarb. With this and my bold, emblazoned spirit in mind, I decided today to use the rest of the rhubarb to do something crazy, something savory, something unlikely. And that is how rhubarb chutney was born.

The chutney is not bad. It's very interesting, in fact. It has that initial awkwardness that some chutneys do -- the sweetness cloaked by black pepper, garlic, and other things that shouldn't even come within a twenty mile radius of a sweet, fruity thing. The rhubarb is cooked down, but it stays pink, so it is a very presentable, very fancy. The recipe suggested baking it on top of brie cheese, which I can't imagine I would ever have a problem with. There aren't a lot of things that can ruin brie cheese for me.

So, I would advise making a very small batch of this rhubarb chutney to begin with, unless you know for some reason that you absolutely adore rhubarb chutney -- in which case, do it up and make the whole amount. I started with one-eighth of this recipe, and I ended up with about 1/2 cup of chutney. The recipe calls for golden raisins, which I think might be delicious, but I was out of them and for some reason couldn't find one single golden raisin in my grocery store. Also, feel free to muck around with this recipe and add other things that might be good, such as another fruit (mango?) or candied ginger.

Rhubarb Chutney
8 C rhubarb, chopped into 1/4" pieces or smaller if you prefer
2/3 C apple cider vinegar
1 1/2 C packed light brown sugar
1 C golden raisins
1/4 C peeled and finely chopped fresh ginger (you can also use the ginger paste in a jar)
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 t salt
1/4 t black pepper

Bring vinegar and sugar to a boil in a saucepan or dutch oven over medium-high heat.

Add rhubarb and remaining ingredients. Stir and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, until rhubarb is starting to get mushy and mixture thickens, 6-8 minutes.

Cool completely. Store in a glass jar in refrigerator. Bring to room temperature before serving. Makes about 5 1/2 cups (yikes, that's a lot).

Serve with grilled pork or chicken, or with slightly melty brie cheese, or on a grilled cheese sandwich. Or do anything else with it that you can dream up!
Now, since you still have a lot of rhubarb left, let's move on to Plan B, shall we?

Strawberry-Rhubarb Muffins
,
adapted from Brilliant Food Tips and Cooking Tricks by David Joachim, which is an absolutely terrific book that I highly recommend

This particular muffin recipe saved me, actually. Not saved me in a Jesus way, but saved me because I spent years of my life making awful muffins. I simply couldn't find a muffin recipe that produced muffins like those I've always admired -- cakey yet moist, substantial yet fluffy. Finally, when I was so close to giving up, Susan got me this book, filled with the most basic recipes for everything. There are, in fact, three levels of muffin recipes in this book: basic tender muffins, more tender muffins, and most tender muffins. I've been so happy with the basic recipe that I haven't even tried the other two variations. And did I mention that the word tender drives me nuts? Gah, of course it does! So let's just call them muffins, and we'll go easy on the adjectives.

Okay, so the recipe. First, some advice.

When combining the wet and dry ingredients for muffins, mix as minimally as possible. Lumps are desirable. Even some spots of unmoistened flour are okay.

You can use ANY flavor variation that you can think of! I've tried this recipe with blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, coconut/macadamia nuts, chocolate chips, bananas, apples, and multiple other things.

You will need:
1 stick (1/2 cup) butter
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder + 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
1 cup buttermilk (I usually substitute a cup of yogurt -- if you use the full-fat kind, they will turn out better. You can also use one cup of milk + 1 T white vinegar as a replacement for the vinegar.)

1 1/2C chopped strawberries + 1 1/2 C chopped rhubarb

1. Adjust the oven rack to the lower-middle position. Preheat the oven to 400 F. Grease a 12-cup muffin pan or line with paper liners.

2. In a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat.

3. In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.

4. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs, buttermilk, and melted butter. Add to the flour mixture. Stir just enough to lightly blend. Add chopped strawberries and rhubarb.

5. Divide the batter evenly into the prepared muffin cups (the cups will be full). Optional: top with a mixture of oats, brown sugar, and flour. Bake until golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean. Cool in the pan on a rack 3 minutes before removing the muffins.

Makes 12-14

Eat these muffins on a front porch with some iced tea and a nice spring breeze blowing through your hair, preferably with the scent of lilacs in the air. If you don't have a porch, steal one! When you end up in prison, it will be worth it.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Lemons For Your Family

That stuff in there? In the pans? Glorious lemon cake batter! It makes a perfect birthday cake for a mom. My mom, to be exact. And the model? It's my brother, a visitor all the way from a much warmer place called Los Angeles, where they honk a lot less and wear white all year long. We were swamped with both playtime and catching up this past weekend, and we even honed our BLT-making skills by making them two days in a row. (Hint: chop the tomatoes, rather than using slices. Seriously, it's his idea and it's brilliant.)

We had great meals. He has fine taste for a big brother, so I hope he liked them. We had intense bacon dogs at Hot Doug's, breakfasty pastrami short ribs at The Publican, stellar wings at Coq d'Or, those lovely flatbreads (and a strawberry-black pepper cocktail!) at In Fine Spirits, and silky spaghetti neri at Piccolo Sogno. We had sweet potato muffins and asparagus eggs with toast at home, as well as a fair amount of salt and vinegar chips (Cape Cod brand -- no other!), plus a modicum of wine (he is in the biz, after all). We read and walked on the beach and made each other laugh by doing silly things with our bodies.

The most important project of the whole weekend, though, was the birthday cake, which was graced with photo cut-outs of our parents' faces, complete with conversational speaking bubbles, which we thought were hysterical. Mom: "I rock!" Dad: "Me, too!" Mom: "But it's not your birthday." I think we thought it was funnier than anyone else did, and we laughed wildly the whole time we developed the cake decorations. We found ourselves saying things like, "Man, we are FUNNY" and "take that, Ace of Cakes!" One thing I know about my brother is that we find ourselves, collectively, to be quite clever. It could be that A.) we have a similar sense of humor that is actually not funny to other people, or B.) we really are kind of funny. I lean towards option B.

So, we made a birthday cake from a recipe that I've had laying around for years. It's a lemon cake, which felt appropriately springlike for, you know, a spring birthday. It is a good cake because you can add other matching fruits, like berries, orange, or lime. Feel free to experiment. Keep in mind that this cake ages pretty well, too. I was devastated that I forgot to send some cake home with my parents, and considered boxing it up and shipping it off -- and , as it turns out, it might have actually done pretty well in the mail. Not sending cake home with the birthday girl means that I still have an abundance of cake in the refrigerator, but it seems happy in there, and it actually might be improving with age. The cake part is still a perfect consistency, and it's delicious when it is so dense and cold.

So, pretend it's your birthday. Or someone's birthday. Take those lemons, and don't go makin' lemonade. Make cake.

First, you'll need to get some things ready so that you don't feel so swamped later on.
zest your lemons

juice your lemons

cut yer parchment circles

grease and flour yer pans
(I sprayed cooking spray, then put in the parchment circles, then sprayed again, then floured.)

Now make that cake!

Nathan's Lemon Cake, which has been renamed Mama's Lemon Cake
adapted from Cooking Light magazine
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour (about 9 ounces)
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
  • 1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
  • 3 large eggs
  • 1 cup nonfat buttermilk (or make your own using 1 C milk and a tablespoon of vinegar)
  • 2 tablespoons finely grated lemon rind
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1. Preheat oven to 350°.

3. Lightly spoon 2 cups flour into dry measuring cups, and level with a knife. Whisk 2 cups flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.

4. Place granulated sugar and 1/2 cup butter in a large bowl; beat with a mixer at medium speed until well blended (about 2-3 minutes). Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add flour mixture and buttermilk alternately to sugar mixture, beginning and ending with the flour mixture. Beat in 2 tablespoons lemon zest and 2 tablespoons lemon juice.

5. Pour batter into prepared pans; sharply tap pans once on counter to remove air bubbles. Bake at 350° for about 28 minutes or until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool in pans 10 minutes on a wire rack; remove from pans and cool completely.

Now it's time to make your icing. Here is what the original recipe called for:

  • 3 cups powdered sugar
  • 1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
  • 1 tablespoon lemon zest
  • 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

Combine powdered sugar and the remaining ingredients in a large bowl and stir with a whisk until smooth.

I'm sure that icing is very nice, but happen to know that my mama like cream cheese icing, just like on the carrot cake we love, so my ingredients were:

1 package of cream cheese, room temperature

1/2 stick of unsalted butter, room temperature

1 box powdered sugar

1/4 C lemon juice

1 T lemon zest

Smear some icing down so your cake will stick. Place 1 cake layer on the icing smear, then spread one-third of icing on top of cake. (At this point I arranged slices of strawberries on top, then topped with the remaining cake layer and spread remaining icing over top and sides of cake. I think mashed raspberries would also be amazing inside this cake.)

This made a very nice icing, but be warned -- it's quite lemony and very sweet. If you LOVE lemon, you will be happy with this icing, but you might want to start off with a little less lemon juice. I've also thought about making this without the lemon juice, and just using the zest. But my real dream is to make a pudding-like, custardy icing for this cake, maybe with some lime zest. I also ended up icing the whole cake, which was just too much icing for me. It looked prettier, but it was A LOT of sweetness.

Garnish with lemon rind strips or with faces of your mom and dad. Store cake covered in the refrigerator. The end.

Saturday, May 8, 2010

A Beheading

I was astounded by how much this ball of lettuce roots looked like a knob of hair. I left it out on the bread board and wanted desperately to startle Matthew, or at least make him do a double take. But no. After he came home and walked past it twenty-five times, I finally had to say something.

Did you see the hair on the bread board? I asked.
You mean the lettuce roots?
he replied.

Okay, really?! This is coming from someone who thinks compares everything in the kitchen to a body part or a body fluid. Granted, he ends up eating everything that comes out of the kitchen, but his power to makes gigantic leaps in the food-comparisons-to-other-things department never fails to astound me. So, anyway. Even though I was a little upset that he didn't see the horror of the hair, I thought about it a little bit more and decided I should be proud. That boy of mine identified lettuce roots, for crying out loud! His culinary education is soaring, everyone. Soaring!

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Cereal Killer

Last night, I spilled an entire box of cereal on the kitchen floor. Oh, wait, let me clarify. An entire box. As in, the whole thing. The whole, bloody box! It was a box of my new favorite cereal which has a terrible, unfortunate name: Gorilla Munch. First of all, I do realize that it's technically a kids' cereal, hence the goofy name. Second, I won't get started (again) on how much I dislike certain food/eating description words -- words like munch, crunch, chewy, tangy, succulent, juicy -- since I do realize we've got cereal to talk about here.

So, Gorilla Munch. It's a delicious, corn-based cereal that I discovered during my recent gluten-free days, and its shape is tiny balls, just like Kix cereal. When one drops them on the kitchen floor, they don't just plop down like a cornflake or a lump of shredded wheat. They roll. They roll everywhere. Under the dishwasher, under the stove, under the refrigerator, under the hutch, everywhere. Somehow, in mid-air, they all develop a tiny Gorilla Munch brain, and this brain tells them to roll away in a million directions and land in all the hardest-to-reach locations, so as to make the dropper really, especially cranky. Thus, I spent a portion of the evening on my belly, poking around under the appliances with various kitchen tools. It wasn't just cereal under there, I'll have you know. There was an alarming amount of dirt, dust, and odds and ends, which made me feel like a terrible housekeeper, while the cereal spill made me feel both clumsy and really wasteful. I suddenly hated this cereal.

The whole experience had me chanting in my head, don't cry over spilt milk, don't cry over spilt milk, because the reality was that I wanted more than anything to cry. Then, of course, Matthew appeared in the kitchen as soon as he heard the sound of the eight million tiny cereal balls hit the ground, followed by my low, sad, whimpery groan-moan. In his standard, cool-as-a-cucumber style, he managed to simultaneously reassure me, tell me I definitely wasn't dumb, sweep up the cereal, and listen carefully as I shrieked out, I just cleaned this floor this morning! I hate this cereal! I need something! I need a tool! Hand me a tool! A spatula! Not a plastic spatula! A metal spatula! No! Not that one! That one! I have to get these OUT of here! Okay, so I'm pretty certain I wasn't actually shrieking, per se, but I am nearly certain I had, you know, a tone.

My urgency did at least result in a very quick clean-up job, though, so in mere moments I was standing on a clean floor, shoving the box of cereal back in the cabinet, too miserable to even look at it, let alone eat it. I ended up eating another kind of cereal, which is sort of funny, now that I'm thinking about it. Gorilla Munch is out of my life, I thought. I held the new box of Puffins cereal with a death grip, though, determined to avoid a rehash.

When I was little, my grandparents had a little shaggy black dog named Alfie, who was the apple of their eye. He was a spunky little dog, and while he mostly ate dog food, he occasionally would get a special treat. My grandfather would get a certain gleam in his eye, and he'd head over to the pantry, with me trotting along after him. He'd go for the orange box of cereal -- the box of Team. Do you remember this cereal? It was flakes; a wheat, rice, oat, and corn cereal made by Nabisco, with a picture on the box of sliced bananas on top of the cereal. The crinkle of the bag would send Alfie over, because he knew what it meant. My grandfather would take out a handful of cereal in his big, sturdy hand, and we'd poke through it to find the biggest flake. I'd get to feed Alfie that flake, and he'd take it from my fingers with his gentle tongue, then my Papa and I would eat the rest of the handful while Alfie waited patiently to see if there'd be more.

Team Flakes was my grandparents' favorite cereal for years, and I remember that orange box being a part of their pantry for the duration of my childhood. It would live on that shelf that was at eye level for me, right next to the ketchup and mustard -- even when I was young, I was both confused and delighted that the condiments didn't live in the refrigerator at my grandparents' house. Mysterious! Unusual! Warm condiments wouldn't kill me, after all! I always felt so devilish when I used them, and I'd often find excuses to consume them. I'd put the mustard on crackers, or on pieces of cheese, all in a quest to feel that liberation.

To me, the condiments weren't the only thing that had an unusual location in my grandparents' house. The canned goods lived in neat rows on the basement shelves, candy bars were stored both in the freezer and in the stereo cabinet, and nuts were in a bowl on the coffee table, surrounded by an array of vicious-looking tools (one of which once made its way into my palm while I was trying to dig out my own nutmeats). Plus, there was never any food out on the counter. Ever. Unless we were in the process of cooking or eating, the counter tops were food-free. No fruit bowl, no stray vegetables. Very occasionally, there would be a bag of bread (always Roman Meal bread, with the twist-tie twisted very tight), but I think it was there by accident, or maybe because I left it there. I laugh now, as I think of the foods currently on my kitchen counter, a scene that would give my grandmother a heart attack -- a twenty-five pound bag of brown rice that is too big to fit anywhere else, bread, tortillas, a bowl of kiwifruit, a bunch of bananas, butter softening so that it can be baked with, a box of cereal, oh! and not to mention the nine bottles of oils and vinegars, the honey, the salt and pepper, the hot sauce, and the sugar. Sheesh. I know it sounds like a frightening mess, but it's not, I swear!

But back to the cereal. Team cereal has, of course, since disappeared, so I did a little bit of research to find out what happened. It sounds like there are some really distraught folks out there who are completely devastated by the loss of Team. Seriously, entertain yourself by googling what happened to Team Flakes? and you'll see what I mean. Not only do people love and miss this cereal in vast ways, but they also seem willing to do anything in order to get it to come back. I have a feeling that Kraft Foods (who now owns Nabisco, which made Team) has received a few warehouses full of Team Mail, and I love to think about the kind of things that people might say in order to convince Kraft to bring about a Team resurgence. This cereal shaped my life, I've read on the Team comment pages, my life has gone downhill since Team was taken away! And has anyone gone to the pun yet? Come back and join the Team! Or, my favorite joke, which is certainly the wittiest, You'll pay for this, you...you....cereal killer!

Its funny but also so lovely to me, the way that people react to food, and the intense nostalgia that people feel when a part of their culinary past is taken away. As soon as I start to laugh about it, though, I stop, because I realize that I am one of those people. I wax nostalgic about all of my food memories, and I file them away and store them in my heart, just like so many people do. The difference, I suppose, is that a loss of a food doesn't leave me angry or violent like half the folks out there mourning the loss of Team cereal, or Quisp, or Jell-O pudding pops, or candy cigarettes. Granted, I grieve, too, but the fact that some foods don't actually exist anymore makes my memories glimmer a little bit more. It makes the memories more ethereal, more special. And, I suppose that one day, when they stop making Gorilla Munch, I'll manage to straighten out all my woes and residual angst from that big spill and I'll come back around, bemoaning the loss, writing letters, posting my comments, expressing my misery, and mourning with the rest of them.