Saturday, April 14, 2012

A Jam I Want To Be In


Now, I know I wax poetic about caramelized onions ALL the time, but come on! Aren't they just one of the most brilliant, perfect things ever invented? And, besides, we should all constantly marvel at how completely odd I am about onions, and this will remind us how interesting my infatuation is. Remember my weirdness? How scared I am of raw onions, but how much I love them when they make their way into cooked-ness? How I have a rawness exception for scallions, and spring onions, and ramps and leeks? How I would eat caramelized onions by the spoonful, but wouldn't eat a raw (white, yellow or red) onion if you paid me a million dollars? (Okay, okay, so I would do it for a million. Quickly, sadly, and wincingly for a million dollars, as long as I could see the money while I was suffering.)

So here's the thing. First, who on earth has time to caramelize onions every single time they want to eat them? (For me, this tends to be every single day.) Second, who else loves the frighteningly expensive but amazingly divine roasted garlic onion jam by Stonewall Kitchen? I fell in love with this product about a year ago. And I know eight bucks isn't all that much, but when it turns into a habit, things change.

If you're one for savory jams (think jalapeƱo jelly-ish), then you'll like this. A lot. It's incredible on sandwiches, and added to nearly anything you're cooking in a skillet, and when it meets up with goat cheese or brie or blue cheese or white cheddar....watch out! It will blow your mind. I went through many jars of this stuff, the whole time thinking I really should just make this. And then, poof! In a magical culinary coincidence, I came across a recipe for an onion marmalade, and I knew it was time.

This marmalade is amazing, although it is, admittedly, a bit different than the jam in the jar. It's less gelatinous, and a bit less sweet, but it has similar flavors, and its applications are nearly identical. I actually think the marmalade is much more versatile -- it always felt a little odd spooning something of that consistency into the pan with my vegetables, or working it into meatballs, or slathering it onto chicken -- probably because of the aforementioned gelatin addition. I ended up altering the original recipe quite a lot. In fact, I won't even cite the origin of this recipe, because I really did flip it on its little oniony head.

The marmalade keeps in a jar in the fridge for a few months, but I doubt it'll be around that long! And the time you'll save by having these onions made already! You will be so happy. Put this stuff on pizza, work it into salad dressing, add to your roasted vegetables, or to any sauce that you have going on the stove. Use on potatoes or bread, in a soup or in a sandwich. Use as a condiment, use as an anything! Add it to your bubble bath, stir it into your cereal. You can't go wrong!

Now then. I'm so excited for you to have this marmalade in your life, so hop to it. There's nothing to be afraid of! Not even for me, the weird-with-onions girl.

Onion & Garlic Marmalade
makes about 2 cups

3 large onions, chopped or minced (You can use any variety, although I prefer yellow onions for this.)
1 head of garlic, peeled and sliced (And, yes, that's one head. Not one clove!)
balsamic vinegar
red wine (optional)
black pepper
salt
water

In a deep cast iron (or simply non-reactive) skillet or dutch oven, heat a few tablespoons of olive oil. Add onions and a teaspoon of salt, and toss to coat. Cover and cook for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until golden brown.

Add 1/4 cup of water, garlic, 1 teaspoon pepper, 2 tablespoons balsamic, and a few tablespoons of wine (if you're using it).  Cover and cook on medium-low heat for 40-80 minutes, stirring and poking at it every once in awhile. Add water as needed. You'll want that original water to cook into the onions so that when you add more water, it'll be sizzly and steamy and it'll help you get all those delicious browned bits from the sides of the pan. You'll want to go through this process several times.

Wait patiently for your onions to get soft and dark brown and sweet! Taste as you go, and add salt, pepper, or balsamic as needed. I sometimes add in a tablespoon or two of dark brown sugar, too, to aid in the caramelization process. Some people like to make their marmalade super sweet, and if you are one of those people, feel free to keep adding sugar.

When it's done, leave it in the pan for a bit to cool down. Spoon into a jar, seal tightly, and store in the fridge. That's your jam!

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